How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Dawnpatrol

    Dawnpatrol Well-Known Member

    May 7, 2006
    Hang in there DP. My thoughts are with ya. My old surf buddy went through this. Chemo legs and all. Once you get your strength back, do what we all did starting out, crawl, e.g., mat or paipo and build back up to it. You might find keeping a board around in the corner of your house or on the wall will keep the memories of the glide alive and the motivation to get back to the salt.
    Surfnfish and dingdong like this.
  2. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I had a pleasant morning session yesterday. Tide was too high, air was too cold, wind was a little too strong offshore, rain was too wet, bed was too warm. I pushed through it and took the Phillips pig out to take a look. It looked a little soft, but nothing that the pig couldn't handle. It turned out to be pretty fun leftovers (remnants of Hurricane Michael). I had the surf all to myself and my thoughts almost the whole time. I haven't had that in a while. Such interesting thoughts pop into your head when you're by yourself, like noticing how every little element of surfing becomes second nature for us, almost instinctive. Like: at what point did I learn that you can spin the board around while you're sitting on it by rotating your legs in one direction or the other? I never really thought about it before, and there are so many other things that we do instinctively when we go out and catch a few waves.

    One interesting thing: At one point, a group of maybe 20 people walked onto the beach. Men, women, some children, all in flowing white garb. It looked like a baptism ceremony - African Methodist Episcopal, maybe? - where each person was being led into the water one at a time and then dunked in. I've never seen that before, but it was neat to see. No doubt, there's something spiritual about the ocean.
  3. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2015
    Devils Lake, Oregon Coast
    what a week....perfect wind conditions, either oil glass or light offshore...5 days of long interval SW swell ranging from shoulder high to well overhead...half a dozen or so friends in the lineup each session...the quiver got a work out..
    SeniorGrom, hankster and michael like this.
  4. Planktom

    Planktom Active Member

    Dec 27, 2016
    Devon, UK
    It's been cooking over the other side of the pond too... at least on the west-facing coastline...

    Definitely a darn sight more than half a dozen each session, but still pretty amicable!
  5. DanSan

    DanSan Well-Known Member

    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    Huge fun pleasure point today..11:30-2:30...4-6'
    Sunny...warm 70s
    High tide dropping to front of O'neills,
    And the point...arrow log with fin from maibooty(thanks
    Crowd..but no aggro..stoked.
  6. DJR

    DJR Active Member

    Feb 1, 2018
    Carolina Beach NC
    Fairly clean thigh high on dropping high tide on Fish Simmons this morning
    Still warm water with a breeze - got a relaxing 2 1/2 hours in out front of the house
    JMJackFish likes this.
  7. JMJackFish

    JMJackFish Well-Known Member

    Jul 5, 2016
    USA North Carolina
    Tucked up on jetty and rode the Murphy Skip egg in thigh clean zippers. Put a 101 Bamboo fin it and that board is smoking. Water is finally cleaning up down here.
    DJR likes this.
  8. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2015
    Devils Lake, Oregon Coast
    always enjoy surfing into old pals who've been patrolling the outside since the 60's..those long period west boomers from the point to O'Neil's, 20 turns and cutbacks on a single wave...climb the cliff, trot back to the point, paddle back out via the Sewer peak much fun

    From the beachbreaks south of town to the reefs north of rich a wave zone as anywhere on the planet..
    Dawnpatrol likes this.
  9. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Sometimes the surf is way better than it looks. We had a little overnight bump show up on Saturday, right in the middle of a dismal flat spell. I rolled over to check it out -- meh. It wasn't fantastic but looked like it'd be worth a shot. As I walked up to the peak to paddle out, I noticed that there was a better peak a little farther up the beach. When I got to that spot, I noticed that I still wasn't there yet. This happened a few times, each time thinking that I had found "the peak", but discovering that the actual peak was even farther up the beach. It wasn't evident from the surf check spot, but it turns out that those were just really long runners that were starting way up in an area of beach replenishment, behind the huge hump of sand that they dumped there.

    I finally found "the spot", paddled out, spun around, and went. I linked that wave all the way back to where I entered the beach, probably around 3 blocks. I got out, walked back, paddled out, and did the exact same thing on the next wave. The waves were sweeping in with a glorious diagonal angle and if you got the right one and trimmed just right, you could really line it up and link together all those sections into one marathon wave. Most were around waist high but some slightly bigger sets with a nice, clean, open face and just the right angle. Awesome. That doesn't happen all that often around here. Absolutely perfect longboard waves, and just right for my Phillips pig. I hope to be able to enjoy the stoke residuals through the end of our endless flat spell.

    The actual peak:

    Farther down the line:
  10. sightpoint

    sightpoint Active Member

    Jan 28, 2014
    2' and onshore
    I check the Jack's and Pleasure Point cam almost daily even though I'm in NY. Both of those spots are so much fun.

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