How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Dawnpatrol

    Dawnpatrol Well-Known Member

    1,182
    203
    May 7, 2006
    PNW
    Hang in there DP. My thoughts are with ya. My old surf buddy went through this. Chemo legs and all. Once you get your strength back, do what we all did starting out, crawl, e.g., mat or paipo and build back up to it. You might find keeping a board around in the corner of your house or on the wall will keep the memories of the glide alive and the motivation to get back to the salt.
     
    Surfnfish and dingdong like this.
  2. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    1,504
    537
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I had a pleasant morning session yesterday. Tide was too high, air was too cold, wind was a little too strong offshore, rain was too wet, bed was too warm. I pushed through it and took the Phillips pig out to take a look. It looked a little soft, but nothing that the pig couldn't handle. It turned out to be pretty fun leftovers (remnants of Hurricane Michael). I had the surf all to myself and my thoughts almost the whole time. I haven't had that in a while. Such interesting thoughts pop into your head when you're by yourself, like noticing how every little element of surfing becomes second nature for us, almost instinctive. Like: at what point did I learn that you can spin the board around while you're sitting on it by rotating your legs in one direction or the other? I never really thought about it before, and there are so many other things that we do instinctively when we go out and catch a few waves.

    One interesting thing: At one point, a group of maybe 20 people walked onto the beach. Men, women, some children, all in flowing white garb. It looked like a baptism ceremony - African Methodist Episcopal, maybe? - where each person was being led into the water one at a time and then dunked in. I've never seen that before, but it was neat to see. No doubt, there's something spiritual about the ocean.
     
  3. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

    994
    728
    Feb 6, 2015
    what a week....perfect wind conditions, either oil glass or light offshore...5 days of long interval SW swell ranging from shoulder high to well overhead...half a dozen or so friends in the lineup each session...the quiver got a work out..
    [​IMG]
     
    hankster and michael like this.

Share This Page