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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
it's wonky up here...are the SD guys scoring?
I had a sick day and used it...
Clean....some rain...good south swell..
No crowd...2hrs of vbowls joy.
Repeat of wednesday
But bigger.. new swell..more west showing..
Mid day..sunny..no crowd..chill line up
At the penguiey bowl..
But jonesing for my new sled
8.2 fowler V8...oh yeah
Nice little groundswell filling in for us in the northeast this afternoon. B-eautifil late afternoon at the beach - sunny, light offshores. Got out for a solid 1-1/2 hours before the after school / after work crowd started decending and it was so much fun - nice little a-frames and waist high runners. Leashless on the Fernandez WRV - starting to click with that board on the beachies, though I really want to find a good 8-ish mid length for days like this. Stayed out for another 45 min after it got “RI crowded” (3-4 people on th peak I was targeting) and left feeling satiated, but hungry for what tomorrow may bring...
Grab that 7.8 vbowls at the beach swap...thatll do the trick
I didn’t want to say it to Stringer, but I wish that board was a little more beat-on (read: cheaper to acquire) cause I so want to try one. 7-8 is my wheelhouse - I have a 7-8 Austin pintail I love, but want some more foil / different feel at that length. Non-profit job + current complicated sewer tie-in at a newly purchased home = not a lot of $$ for pretty boards like that...
There is a 7.8 here for 750..in pacifica..just sluth of SF
No surf for me for some time; at least another 12 months before I can get the friggin chemo port out, , , , , , and anyway, the Bone Marrow/Stem Cell Transplant chemo from July is still dragging my ass!!!!
Otherwise, I sold the last board I had. It is the first time since 1964 that I have not owned a board!!!!!
Hang in there..
Youll be back at it..the time will go by quick.
I lost a year to shoulder surgery...
2 yrs before that...a year to acl..
Can kèep this gimpy old man
Fyi...looks like mini howard in pacifica sold.
Nice little run of some fun surf lately for us in SB; local points are picking it up nicely (with some wind/sloppy chatter) but hey, 3-4+ I will take any time! Water still nice, sand starting to move offshore and for the first time....EVER, 80+ of my closest personal friends at my local break (picture Malibu, only not Malibu). But....but...the ocean is for all of course and still fun to surf regardless of how many buoys are in the water.