How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Salinity

    Salinity Active Member

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    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    Got out yesterday in some fun racy-ish waist high waves at the beach. Was being careful with the staples in my head and all (coming out today - wife looked and approved a morning surf), but caught a few fun ones. Just great to be back out there after having to watch the last swell. Surfed a new-to-me (and practically new) WRV 9-0 Fernandez - board seems like it can be pretty fun. Certainly lighter and more maneuverable than my Almond log with a bit more rocker for the beach break - may be a keeper for a while under the guise of a board for the wife just in case she ever starts surfing. Plus, it fits in my car!
     
    FalseDawn, SeniorGrom and davey like this.
  2. kpd73

    kpd73 Well-Known Member

    1,820
    523
    May 8, 2013
    USA Rhode Island
    frankenstein_surfing.jpg

    I thought I saw you out there...
    Stoked for you J.
     
    Salinity likes this.
  3. deemce

    deemce Active Member

    832
    216
    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania
    Just got back from the maiden voyage of the 7-6 Fountain of Youth. Seniorgrom and I found some waist to chest waves on a draining sandbar. It took a while for the wind to clean it up but it was worth the wait.
    I had my reservations going in with this "shortboard" (will it be a good paddler?, how well will it get into the waves?, will the ass spin out on cutbacks (like a previous trifin I had....and got rid of)?, etc,etc. All of those concerns washed away after the second wave. What a board. Great paddler, easy to get into waves, not too skatey, very fast and no spin outs....none. I am really stoked on this board and can agree why it is liked so much. Great job Bruce.
    Thanks to SG for the water shots and glamour shot.
     

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  4. Tlri

    Tlri Member

    62
    38
    Oct 30, 2017
    Rhode island
    Thigh to waist high beach break closeouts.
    But, got to share them with my 10yr old before her contest.
    Priceless!

    E6C54B08-4A31-4731-BA55-83ABAD631554.png
     
  5. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Nice, Dave!!! Stoked for you! Sweet action shots, too.
     
  6. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    1,504
    537
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I squeezed in a quick session on Saturday in between other obligations. I almost passed on it, but I'm so glad I got up and went because I've been thinking about the session ever since. I like to surf as early as possible these days, so I was feeling very much late to the party when I rolled up around 9. Crowded but lots of peaks to go around. Mostly chest high with some head high+ bombs rolling in once in a while. The wind started shifting north right as I paddled out but it still stayed fun for two hours or so. I took out my 7'4" v.Bowls, which has mostly gone unridden since December. I clicked with it right away, and man -- it's so fast and refreshingly agile.

    The wave that hasn't left my mind since: I was on an already-juicy left (backside for me) where another equally juicy wave was coming in at probably a 60 degree angle. The convergence of the two was either going to result in a kooktacular disaster or a perfect wedge. As it all heaved together, I leaned in and slingshotted probably the best and most powerful cutback I've ever done along that wedge (wa-pah!!!). It felt like I was riding a bowl in a skate park. I was actually a little surprised as I came out of it that I hit it just right. So much fun though. Funny how one single turn can make your day.

    On the way out, I found a nice little sand dollar -- very rare for my part of the coast, especially whole and unbroken.

    Sat1.jpg

    Sat2.jpg
     
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  7. Salinity

    Salinity Active Member

    296
    106
    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    Shared some well-timed thigh to waist high peelers with KPD today at his local. Fun past couple of days with double sessions yesterday (caught a bombie in the afternoon and looked into the eye of the beast before it's tail whipped me into the sand) and a really fun afternoon session today with practically nobody out. Still amazes me that can happen - certainly an advantage of living in New England. I love these grey days with cool air temps, moderate water temps, clean waves and good peeps. Stoked!
     
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  8. Tlri

    Tlri Member

    62
    38
    Oct 30, 2017
    Rhode island
    Salinity, I almost made it out to the same break but had to make a stop in Newport for work and couldn’t pass up a sure thing when I drove by the beach.
    Got 2 hours in waist+ fading to thigh high pealing waves with only 3-4 others out. Great times on a 9’6” JP pig.
     
    Salinity and SeniorGrom like this.
  9. Salinity

    Salinity Active Member

    296
    106
    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    I was watching 2nd all day (cam) while getting some work done at home and waiting for the weather to clear - i wanted to try down kpd’s way today since i was at 2nd (am) & Horseneck (pm) yesterday (you know, diversity and all), but it looked really fun in the late am over there - stoked for ya!
     
  10. DanSan

    DanSan Active Member

    522
    76
    Jun 7, 2012
    USA California
    7.10 vbowls...pacifica...fun ..
    Can't wait for Fountain of Youth V8...
    Bruce sent 2 pics yesterday..yeeeew
     

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