How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Gallery

    Gallery Member

    Jul 3, 2018
    New Jersey
    I bet they had a blast. I need a watersports type vest for my 4.5 year old. I'm having a hard time finding something that's not too bulky in his size. What did you find that fit your guy?
    dingdong likes this.
  2. DJR

    DJR Active Member

    Feb 1, 2018
    Carolina Beach NC
    4:30 to 8:30 tonight long lines thigh to stomach
    Light south winds from mid low tide to high
    Mullet popping and pelicans swooping with crazy clouds and
    Only me and a buddy for a hundred yards
    started on Brom fish ended up on a Hall Fish Simmons
    As my Pop says, “This is why we live here...”
    deemce likes this.
  3. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
    Decided to take a chair and just sit on the beach yesterday afternoon about 2PM. Low tide was just after 4PM according to Tides Near Me. Pretty stiff offshore wind (goddam greenheads) and the tide was high but dropping. I see lines coming in pretty consistently that were non-existent earlier when I checked .. ..chest-shoulder but still struggling to break on the sandbar because the tide needed to drop more. I left my chair, drove back to the house which is about 12 blocks away and grabbed my 9'2" and a bar of wax. Paddled out and spent the next hour riding a solid little clean swell that came out of nowhere. Maybe 10 other folks, if that. Mostly kids with soft tops. Wind shifted to SE so I packed it in. I am always amazed by mystery swells.
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2018
    Gallery and Chilly Willy like this.
  4. shadydave

    shadydave Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2014
    Ayer Ma USA
    Ah, the advantage of living near the beach.
  5. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Getting up for dawn patrol: High hopes, medium expectations.
    Actually looking at the waves: Suddenly very low expectations.
    Paddling into my first one: Exceeds my expectations!

    It turned out to be a ripple rider's paradise! Knee high but lining up great with a very easy glide-in on my Trimulux. I only had an hour and change before work, but my wave count was through the roof. My best wave was a reeling thigh-high peeler complete with a cheater five that took me all the way to the next beach entrance. A handful of pesky sweepers took notice and came buzzing around, which is usually super annoying, but what the heck... we were all similarly stoked and having a good time on a day where no one expected it.

    The guy who was having the worst time was my buddy, still fairly new to surfing, who always insists on riding a shortboard regardless of the conditions. I just can't convince him to suck it up and feel the glide of a traditional log. I understand wanting the surf in a shortboarding style, but even if you can catch the wave, what are you really going to do on tiny surf riding a shortboard anyway? I didn't say anything to him this time because I gave up on trying to convince him to get a longboard. He was pretty miserable though, so hopefully this will be the tipping point for him to go over to the dark side.
    michael likes this.
  6. michael

    michael Well-Known Member

    Apr 19, 2017
    Similar experience here. Tiny peelers held up. It pretty much shut down by 7-7:15 tho.
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  7. Makawaosurfer93

    Makawaosurfer93 Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2007
    USA New Jersey
    Chilly Willy & Michael,
    As much as I hate to say it, you shoulda been here last night. I am usually on the wrong side of this comment. Last night as I drove over the bridge the flags were all blowing off shore. Low tide and now filling in, storm clouds and squalls passing by rapidly, I paddled out into an empty lineup. People were fleeing the beach as the rain started, but I didn't care, I was getting wet anyway. I had a 9'4"
    '65 50/50 with me and thats it. It was the perfect board for the wave. The first wave set up nicely with a smooth takeoff.
    A little unintentional stall until I took one step forward and the off to the races. Wow!! Grin from ear to hear on the way back out. The rest of the session was similar until I got the hang of the takeoff location on the board. Nice little waist high peelers out of the south. I was out for about 1.5 hours as I needed to get back home to make dinner, but I had a great time. I actually wish someone else was there to share it with. Not the usual situation in NJ in the summer. You are trying to find a wave by yourself most times.
    Sent out this morning and the west wind must have blowing all night, because it was knocked down by the time I got there around 6:30. Oh well, at least I am on the other side of the comment for a change.
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  8. michael

    michael Well-Known Member

    Apr 19, 2017
    I made it out last night as well from about 6-8. Best session of August for me. Nice texture on the water from the rain, sun setting behind me, bright sky in front of me complete with full arc rainbow... Dream session.
    Chilly Willy and Makawaosurfer93 like this.
  9. Roadmaster

    Roadmaster Well-Known Member

    Nov 19, 2015
    USA Virginia
    Ultra small here in VA Beach but perfect conditions aside from no swell. A few waves were ridable with the tide push. Here I am in a speed tuck trying to ram
    Basenji1703, would have been epic but due to camera angle and him walking out of danger; I never got close

    Chilly Willy likes this.
  10. Gill

    Gill Active Member

    Mar 21, 2018
    Spring Lake Heights, NJ
    This morning: same here as many others posted!

    Did expect much- noticed wind was west before first light... so grabbed my board and headed down, small perfect peelers coming through at my fav spot.

    Paddles out on the 9’10 Austin Pig, perfect board that hasn’t seen as much water time in the last few months (riding other boards...). I forgot how much I love the board and how well it nose rides! Long peeling thigh high waves, as everyone else reported.

    Had about an hour by myself before work- beautiful sunrise and a beautiful view/colors/shadows as i was walking back up the beach.

    The only thing that stunk was the water... tons of run off. And brown water, smelled like a porta John... my fav spot happens to be right by an outflow pipe that connects to an inland pond... needless to say, it was out flowing.. The water and the waves where brown lol I only caught a few waves there and kept my head dry- then paddled south to the next jetty and spent the rest of the time in cleaner water... and the waves where actually better! Perfect speed for nose riding!

    Memorable summer morning! Thank God!
    Chilly Willy and michael like this.

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