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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
Was well overhead today
Stoke-o-meter is off the charts this morning! This morning is the reason I surf. We had some outstanding waves in Seaside Park this morning, perfect for my 9'6" Trimulux. It was mellow (but occasionally kind of big) at first, but the surf gods flipped a switch at one point where it turned on. It was anywhere from waist high to head high on the bigger sets... long, lined up, and glassy. Rights, lefts, whatever you wanted. The water is perfect - warm and clear. I surfed for 3.5 hours and would have stayed longer if I wasn't tired, hungry, and my sunscreen was probably wearing off.
My best wave: a beautiful set rolled in with me in the perfect position. Steep takeoff (so glad I nailed it), bottom turned and let my 4A fling me right down the line, and there was that long, glorious, tapering, glassy wall just waiting for me like a blank canvas. I don't even remember what happened after that, I think a few cutbacks, but I mostly got lost in a time warp. I do remember hearing some hoots from the two nearby shortboarders as I was taking off, then a few more hoots that I heard in the distance after I made the drop and was flying down the wall. I got some nice compliments from them when I got back out to the lineup. Full endorphin rush all around. For me, that's about as good as it gets.
I agree with chilly - the last few days have been a blast here in jersey!
Warm water- peeling waves and some friendly faces... what more could you want?
I'm surprised the swell stuck around for so long, perfect for the longboard
Same experience in Lavallette this morning. Super fun 3.5 hr session. Kept expecting the tide to kill it, but it just got better and better. Such a fun morning. Rode my 8’6” COS Mini C and was doing cheater 5’s on every wave.
This mornings surf was heartfelt and a great reminder of how amazing a community of people can be. Rest easy Hugh Thompson.
photos by Chris Condon
Bump for Jersey
Took the mat out again today. So much fun, waist plus and sheet glass. I’m totally hook on riding a mat. So fast as well
Nice. That first picture is what I love to see when I step onto the beach in the summer. We had a good little run there for a couple of days.
Today I surfed choppy waist high shorebreak closeouts on kids foamies with my best college friend (class of '94) who is visiting along with his kids. We board hunted, found one of my formers on the used rack at one shop and was offered an alaia to demo by another.
We had so much fun I'm on vacation and I have sand in my hair. And tomorrow we get to do it again. Yes!
Got it good at a popular spot this morning with just me and a buddy out. Yesterday was the better day and I had fun, but I may have gotten more enjoyment out of surfing empty leftovers this morning. Gotta love those leftovers.