Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
OMG!! Holy mother of F!!!...is there a crowd hidden out the back there??
Well said Vinnie
I was about to rip this thing up!!! lol
I feel sad now thinking about that wave compared to the wave Vet posted up...:tears:
This winter has been the worst since my arrival here... endless series of storms bringing onshores, too much swell for our beachbreaks, and tons of polluted runoff from all the rain. My last session actually dates from mid November!
So today a buddy offers a strange proposal - to paddle out to these off-shore islets/sand bars on SUP's. Never been on one in the ocean, but I really needed to get wet.. and figured a little wandering couldn't hurt. A bit of current but a nice half mile paddle out. While the ocean was whitecapped out and total nonsense, on the landward side there were these funky little thigh high waves so I ditched the paddle and grabbed a few - just popping to my knees and flying down the line on a 14 foot racing board. Stoked to be in the water.
Then on the way in I caught a chop and fell in a weird way. Laying here with my knee iced up trying to figure out if I blew the ligaments or not.
Still, fired up on being in the ocean. Cool to be off on your own little island with no one anywhere around. And I think that with another couple of feet of swell, there is some potential for a fun little wave.
Shweet, where a bouts? Looks like real fun.
one of the local sunrise photographers who posts on instagram took this shot of me paddling this morning. waves were very small but super clean and glassy, got out at 6:30am and had ridable waves for about an hour as the tide got too high for the tiny waves
year of rehabbing a repaired shoulder, recently cleared to surf..first few sessions timing a bit rough...today was mo betta, gliding a point-like sandbar with long walls off a headland with just four of us out..good times
Riley was fun. Some rights in long beach!!! That felt good. 6am.
To all the northeast jammers: hope you catch a few fun ones from this offshore storm. Hope to be back out there with y’all soon.