How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Salinity

    Salinity Active Member

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    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    "and you should definitely stop surfing"...

    Those terrifying words were uttered by my primary care doctor a couple weeks ago after reviewing an MRI report that stemmed from my complaints about sciatica nerve issues. I'm stubborn by nature, but since it's getting colder anyhow I decided to at least halfheartedly heed the advice, only going out occasionally and listening to my body a bit more (i.e., not pushing through the pain). Lying prone actually provides relief to my back and it's only the popup action that could be uncomfortable. Am I making it worse? Probably not, but I'm quite certain I'm not making it better either (likely only surgery will do that - I'll find out at the end of the month when I talk to a neurosurgeon). Pulling back on the frequency and duration of surf sessions is having a noticeable effect on my overall being. People at work started asking how I am and if I'm "ok". What do you say to such things when you're clearly not, but not because of anything they'd understand?

    Fast forward to today - whipping west west winds, closest working buoy showing 14 ft at 10 sec. Found my somewhat sheltered honey hole working but not without maximum effort - ripping current and paddling in to any wave required total commitment to overcome the blowback and blind takeoffs. I got a couple ok rides and got absolutely worked on a couple (one classic late takeoff / over the falls / shoved to the bottom that actually felt good in some crazy way). After about 90 minutes self preservation started to kick in as I was getting cold and tiring from fighting the current - time to go in - one last wave time. I got a little one, but it didn't feel like a proper last wave - so back outside. Then she came - looked to be a honking left I had no business paddling into in my current state, but what the heck. I turned and stroked as hard as my rubber-clad hands would paddle. The drop was weird - the wind held me on the lip and held the lip from throwing (thank goodness) for what felt like an eternity - then I started to slide down the face and the wave took shape - a nice walled up left. I heard a hoot and looked down the line to a classic scene: another surfer way down the line hands raised hooting me on (I try to leave vanity out of my surfing experiences, but this was pretty cool). I made the drop, set a line and rode it as far as I could until the wave decided to close out near the rocks. Ride over, session over. Stoke returned.

    Back feels ok too, now 4 hours post-session - no worse and I really didn't feel any discomfort during popups today.
     
    dingdong and glider_boy like this.
  2. kpd73

    kpd73 Well-Known Member

    1,508
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    May 8, 2013
    USA Rhode Island
    Right on my friend. Right on.
     
  3. deemce

    deemce Active Member

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    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania
    Great post. Sciatica? Try Yoga. Child's pose. Has prevented sciatica from coming back with me.
     
  4. Wade In The Waves

    Wade In The Waves Well-Known Member

    1,781
    92
    Mar 23, 2012
    USA North Carolina
    No surf today. Hell, I don’t even remember the last time I surfed. I did have surgery on my ankle for the third time in the last couple years today though. Had them remove all the hardware. Hoping this leads to les pin and more waves. I guess I m stoked bout that.
     
    dingdong likes this.
  5. strez

    strez Active Member

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    Mar 23, 2012
    USA Massachusetts
    Hope you have positive results from the op.
     
  6. Roadmaster

    Roadmaster Active Member

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    Nov 19, 2015
    USA Virginia
    The surf report had the surf in Virginia Beach flat both yesterday and today, so of course I went out both days before the sun came up. had to get on it as the tide would be getting too high late morning, luckily good winds both days. I had a lot of fun both days, no one even showed up both days, so I had some clean 1 footers all to myself. Surf cams of yesterday and today;



    swwt2.png
    flat.png



    swwt2.png flat.png
     
  7. strez

    strez Active Member

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    Mar 23, 2012
    USA Massachusetts
    Not bad for "flat"...
     
  8. deemce

    deemce Active Member

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    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania
    Just got back from a family trip to south west Florida. We take day trips over to Boca Grande to hit the beaches there. In all the years going there, only saw it surfable once, until Monday. I walked out to the beach to see solid offshores and knee to waist sandbar peelers. Took a few pics only to then see two guys out on another sandbar a couple of hundred yards north. I walked up to check out a Father/son team trading warm water shallow sandbar waves. Looked like they were having a blast. After about 5 minutes of watching from the beach, the Dad takes one in and motions to me if I want to try his board....what luck! Paddled out to take in small but fun sand bar waves in the Gulf of Mexico. The son tells me it only breaks like that 6-7 times a year and they were lucky that day. Had a blast riding 9-2 Surfboards Hawaii Model A talking story with a young man that truly was stoked with surfing. To Chariie and his son Chas...Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving. I am truly thankful that I ran into you both and you shared the stoke.
     
    Chilly Willy and longhairhippie like this.
  9. newlyn

    newlyn Active Member

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    Jul 20, 2013
    USA Pennsylvania
    Took a drive to OCNJ today. Beautiful day, not too cold nor crowded, waist-high, soft waves, with occasional plus sets. It was a short session but I had a blast. I haven't surfed in a few months, and definitely not used to this much rubber, but felt great and I was really pleased with how I surfed for a change. Also met Logfather at the surf shop afterwards. One of these days I need to move closer to the beach.
     
    deemce likes this.
  10. miscreant

    miscreant Well-Known Member

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    272
    May 20, 2016

    It’s my opinion that the length of a session isn’t as valuable a measure as the quality of the waves one gets while they are out.

    i surf with folks that bob around for twice or 3 times as long as i surf, yet their wave count is less than or equal to mine.

    Anyway, one wave can make one’s week.
     
    deemce likes this.

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