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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.
All Praise be to the magic towel!
Giver of life and light and sessions when there really should have been!
I have been on the go now for for 17 hours, a full tank of diesel has been used, I am cold to my very core, I met the soft rocks & EVERYTHING hurts but I have the biggest shit eating grin on my face.
On Friday made a 1 1/2 hour drive to Sandy hook ( faces east) only to find a diminishing swell and a 18+mph wind which was completely ruining the surf. A buddy of mine who knows Jersey well suggested we drive an additional hour South to Long Beach Island which faces a bit more South. While it was still windy the conditions were much better!
Nice! Glad you scored. It pays to know the subtle differences in the shoreline angles here and how they interact with swell directions.
do you know Roy?
nah my buddy is Robbie Nelson, he works as a surf coach in NY and NJ. I try to surf with him and his clients when i can because he is just a great guy and very knowledgeable about everything surf related. He also usually pulls up to a break with a whole quiver of boards in his van. I was actually riding one of his boards that friday which was a an 8'6" board with 3 1/2 inch rails shaped by Mahady Surfboards. It caught anythings and the narrow nose worked well in the strong offshore wind.
That's what I need!
he is great, does not run a surf camp. Works year round. This is his busiest time of year. He is in the water for every swell event!
What a great post. That last sunset picture is amazing. What's water temp? Today for me first in about 5 days, missed the swell we had but captured some real nuggets today with a dropping water temp of 62. Coming to Ireland with a mat would be incredible. What are you riding?
After several weekends of questionable surf we were blessed with a perfect day at the Oregon coast. This would be the first weekend to try out the Bing Collector I picked up while in Encinitas several weeks earlier as well as a 07 Sienna that I just purchased on CL for camping and surfing. I checked the surf cam at sunlight and it looked like 2-3ft peelers which was enough to make the 2 hour trip. When I arrived I saw a handful of people in the water and 3-5ft green peelers. I quickly suited up and ran down the stairs to jump in. The waves were great, crowd was friendly and it was a ton of fun to try out the Collector. Catching waves was different from the 10' longboard I've been riding, but after a couple of attempts I caught the first of many green faces. The board was lively, stable, fast and the guys at Bing were right, you can noseride this thing. The board is a clear winner for me and I look forward to growing as a surfer and learning new moves on a much more agile board. After about 3 hours I got out and stopped by Pura Vida surf shop to pick up a shirt and some stickers for the van, then over to Ocean Pulse to try on booties. I finished things off with lunch at Mo's and then made the drive back. What a day!