How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Totally stoked! My buddy talked me into a pre-work surf this morning even though just about everything seemed to be working against us. I thought it would be okay, but not great. When we got there, we had the double whammy of darkness and heavy fog obscuring the view at our usual spot. We walked down to the beach to get a closer look and saw that a couple fisherman were planted right in the one and only spot that was breaking. Hrmph. We drove through the fog up the beach to the pier -- it was so foggy that I almost drove right past it. It looked a little better, but still too dark to tell. We suited up and paddled out and... wow! Getting into the lineup revealed a whole world of waves that weren't visible from the shore. Way better than I expected. I thought we'd get a few waist high ones at best, but there were some solid chest high sets rolling in. They weren't lining up as well as they were the other day -- more meandering rights and lefts with some closeouts -- but they were slicked off with a really nice foggy glass and really fun to ride. I am stunned. I thought for sure we were going to get skunked, but it turned out to be a fantastic way to start a Friday.

After the session:

 

headed to baja! Woot! that is all

 

Say Hi! to Captain Seaweed, aka Bill for me Vinny. Hope ya get a SW pulse this late?

 

Dang, that's lame. I'd love to come back soon, trying to figure out something for December

 

We're wandering around on our own T, might drop by Bill's place though, so I'll definitely give him a hello from you if I see him

 

Pretty fun dawn patrols lately. Hot Gen for the win.

 

Nice one, glad to see her out and about!

 

Went to Camuy to check out Tim's house and measure the new roof we're gonna replace. Waist high peelers, surf mat style... first wave cute girl surfing a shortboard with a g-string on drops in on me, surfed it all the way behind her with no complains... after we kick out I tell her that if I would have had a camera it would have been an awesome video, she got it and smiled confident about her pretty butt... next wave I get a barrel all the way from deep outside... rode it all the way to casa de Tim and Christian... looking forward to Christmas... don't need Trump's permission to say "Feliz Navidad"...
Love y'all!

 

Love you Tony!!

 

not in a gay way