How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Third time this week that I've beaten the sun to the beach! We got skunked yesterday, but today was great. A little soft still, but the bigger sets were nice rollers that were forgiving and held up well with lots of room on the face for some lazy cutbacks. The wave size was approximately between my 3rd and 4th rib, maybe 4th and 5th on some of the bigger ones. (Ha ha.) I've been vibing on midlengths since the spring and haven't ridden my Phillips pig (9'6") in a while, but she went great. I forgot how "tippy" it feels at first, but it's a nice characteristic that you can use to your advantage for turning.

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    dingdong, Igosurf, Roadmaster and 5 others like this.
  2. miscreant

    miscreant Well-Known Member

    May 20, 2016
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  3. kpd73

    kpd73 Well-Known Member

    May 8, 2013
    USA Rhode Island
    Rad man. And that first photo is Official! Get that printed and framed for sure.
  4. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    While trick-or-treaters all over town were going door to door for Halloween candy yesterday afternoon, I went to the ocean and got some sweet candy of my own. Outstanding conditions leftover from Monday's big swell. The quality was still there with endless peeling rights, but the size was much more manageable: chest high with head high sets, still enough juice to it, but also a longer period with plenty of time in between for an easy paddleout. One of our sandbars was setting up perfectly, which was great but also pretty congested with other surfers. I rode my 8'4" v.Bowls, which was perfect... though it was one of those days where just about any board in my quiver would have been a fantastic choice. We surfed until you couldn't see anymore (which happened way too soon with the shorter days this time of year). The reward for staying out late was a scene that should have been a photograph: silhouettes of two other surfers to our south with a perfect righthander in the distance peeling down the line, with everything soaked in one of the most vibrant, golden sunsets I've ever seen.

    Almost forgot to snap a photo, so here's one of the smaller ones that I came in right as I hustled back to the car to suit up:

    jbb, dingdong, miscreant and 4 others like this.
  5. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

    Mar 20, 2012
    USA New Jersey
    Similar experience Chilly but just three of us out. Wedging lefts and rights. Color of the sky in all directions was like subtle watercolors. I even managed a little backside rail grab barrel. Probably just looked like a geezer getting pummeled in whitewater but to me it’s a barrel. Fun stuff. Bonus Factor......on the original Morey Pope Tracker!! Thanks Shady.
    jbb, deemce, zippy and 2 others like this.
  6. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Nice, SG! I'd say you deserve a mulligan on the barrel as long as some part of you was in there. By the way, sorry to hear that you and Dave got skunked when you gave my local break a shot. I was telling him today that a fuller tide seems to be key right now to prevent those shallow dumpers. I surfed right through high tide yesterday and thankfully no problemo.
  7. shadydave

    shadydave Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2014
    Ayer Ma USA
    Sharing is caring, I’m as stoked as you and I didn’t even surf!!:cool:
  8. Freddibetts

    Freddibetts Active Member

    May 7, 2015
    USA New York
    Can confirm - looked AWESOME - as i drooling over my keyboard watching the local cams cursing the shorter daylight hours:mad:
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  9. takedown

    takedown Active Member

    Jun 26, 2017
    Eugene, OR
    Had what was a pretty amazing week in SoCal. I flew into Burbank, drove to Culver City and picked up a 9'8 heavily glassed Connelly pintail from a friend, strapped it to the roof of the rental car and went up to Santa Clarita to stay with my sister. Sunday morning we went out to C-Street in Ventura to meet up with my uncle and caught waves for about 3 hours. It started out pretty thick without much power, but we found some good ones on the inside. Went back out to C-Street on Wednesday afternoon and had a great sunset session with perfect waves. Friday morning I got out to Malibu First Point around 8:30 and navigated what was a busy lineup to find some good ones. Headed south and got some ramen in Santa Monica before battling traffic to Encinitas. Friday evening got in a 2 hour sunset session at Beacons. Saturday morning we drove all over checking out spots and it was pretty small up and down the coast. Settled on Pipes and had some fun out there. Saturday eve back to Beacons. Saturday night I met up with a really interesting guy that was selling a 9'6 Ohana Kemp shaped by Jim Phillips and bought that from him to keep at my sister's for when I come to visit. Sunday morning we welcomed some new swell and had some of the bigger waves of the trip with solid 3-4ft with the occasional head high set. Sunday afternoon I stopped by Bing and purchased a 8'0 Collector to have shipped back to Oregon for the bigger winter swell and then went out back for the last session in Encinitas. The swell had picked up even more and I got some great rides on my friend's 9'6 In the Pink. Drove back north to drop off the Connelly and to stay in North Hollywood. Drove back to C-Street in the morning for the final session before dropping off the board at my sister's and heading back to Burbank airport. It was a wonderful trip and can't wait for the next one!
  10. dingdong

    dingdong Well-Known Member

    Jan 14, 2013
    USA California
    epic trip! you need to come back and bring the swell back with you, its now back to crap!

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