How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. davey

    davey Member

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    Jun 9, 2007
    Australia
    Good for you mate, nice way to spend a birthday..
     
  2. strez

    strez Active Member

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    Mar 23, 2012
    USA Massachusetts
    Today I caught a few small ones with my novice 15 year-old son. We both rode Bics! Was a beautiful fun morning in northeast Mass.

    Thursday I hit it shoulder high and clean. So fun to have some speed and face to enjoy!
     
  3. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    265
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Welcome back to the water, T!
     
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  4. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I'm on vacation this week, so I got up for dawn patrol this morning. Expecting small waves, I pulled the Trimulux off the rack for the first time in a few months. It was a good choice for the conditions, but I think the v.Bowls has ruined me for heavier logs! It took a little getting used to a loggier ride again. I did like the glide though. I tried swapping out my 4A for a Farberow Flex (first time using one), but I don't think the waves were juicy enough to get a real benefit from the flex and thought it was just generally stiff and switched back. I ended up surfing for 2 hours and then scoring a sack of Ob-Co's donuts to bring home.

    Oh: there was an overnight upwelling, so it was FURREEEZING! I was wishing I brought some boots or even wore my 4/3. To think, I've oversuited myself all spring, and the one day that I trotted onto the beach in a 3/2 is the day that the water was frosty.

    Also: It amuses me that I can hardly get out of bed by 7:00 on regular work days, but I can voluntarily get up at 5:00 for surfing.

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    Tully likes this.
  5. cheyneskeezer

    cheyneskeezer Member

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    May 30, 2017
    Long Beach CA
    Got solo churches this morning on my magic Ham... drained tide but a few sets connected all the way to the shore super fulfilling thing catches trim well cheater fives and super whippy turns
     

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    Chilly Willy likes this.
  6. miscreant

    miscreant Well-Known Member

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    May 20, 2016
    rad!
     
  7. deemce

    deemce Active Member

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    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania

    Funny how that stoke gets you up before the sun! And you got waves on vacation? Bonus.
     
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  8. T-Bone

    T-Bone Member

    Thanks Chilly - felt good. Glad you are getting some Vaca surf in also, hope it continues to give you rideable waves for the week!
     
  9. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    1,267
    265
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Another early morning surf today. I just got my 9'8" Bing Elevator back from my ding repair guy, so I thought I'd take it out. It was a good call for the waist-and-smaller steep little runners. With all the talk about "archer, not the arrow", I can definitely say that while that may be true, the arrow sure does have a lot to do with it. That board noserides like nothing else I've ridden. It holds solid and dependable right in the face. I had a few nice fives and even a couple tens (the first one was kind of by accident). I will say this though: just because you've got the right arrow and get up there doesn't mean you're going to look good doing it. PEE YEW! My style was awful. I had some nice, smooth moments but also a handful of flailing kook-outs. When the board is such a solid performer, there is no one left to blame but yourself!

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  10. ChyandourSlider

    ChyandourSlider New Member

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    Nov 3, 2016
    West Cornwall, UK
    A few fun ones rolling into my local (Gwithian) last night. Rode my 10'6" Christenson Chris Craft glider on it for a couple of hours. Not a breath of wind. Best surf of the month!

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