How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. davey

    davey Member

    Jun 9, 2007
    Good for you mate, nice way to spend a birthday..
  2. strez

    strez Active Member

    Mar 23, 2012
    USA Massachusetts
    Today I caught a few small ones with my novice 15 year-old son. We both rode Bics! Was a beautiful fun morning in northeast Mass.

    Thursday I hit it shoulder high and clean. So fun to have some speed and face to enjoy!
  3. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Welcome back to the water, T!
    T-Bone likes this.
  4. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I'm on vacation this week, so I got up for dawn patrol this morning. Expecting small waves, I pulled the Trimulux off the rack for the first time in a few months. It was a good choice for the conditions, but I think the v.Bowls has ruined me for heavier logs! It took a little getting used to a loggier ride again. I did like the glide though. I tried swapping out my 4A for a Farberow Flex (first time using one), but I don't think the waves were juicy enough to get a real benefit from the flex and thought it was just generally stiff and switched back. I ended up surfing for 2 hours and then scoring a sack of Ob-Co's donuts to bring home.

    Oh: there was an overnight upwelling, so it was FURREEEZING! I was wishing I brought some boots or even wore my 4/3. To think, I've oversuited myself all spring, and the one day that I trotted onto the beach in a 3/2 is the day that the water was frosty.

    Also: It amuses me that I can hardly get out of bed by 7:00 on regular work days, but I can voluntarily get up at 5:00 for surfing.

    Tully likes this.
  5. cheyneskeezer

    cheyneskeezer Well-Known Member

    May 30, 2017
    Long Beach CA
    Got solo churches this morning on my magic Ham... drained tide but a few sets connected all the way to the shore super fulfilling thing catches trim well cheater fives and super whippy turns

    Attached Files:

    Chilly Willy likes this.
  6. miscreant

    miscreant Well-Known Member

    May 20, 2016
  7. deemce

    deemce Active Member

    May 18, 2010
    USA Pennsylvania

    Funny how that stoke gets you up before the sun! And you got waves on vacation? Bonus.
    Chilly Willy likes this.
  8. T-Bone

    T-Bone Active Member

    Thanks Chilly - felt good. Glad you are getting some Vaca surf in also, hope it continues to give you rideable waves for the week!
  9. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Another early morning surf today. I just got my 9'8" Bing Elevator back from my ding repair guy, so I thought I'd take it out. It was a good call for the waist-and-smaller steep little runners. With all the talk about "archer, not the arrow", I can definitely say that while that may be true, the arrow sure does have a lot to do with it. That board noserides like nothing else I've ridden. It holds solid and dependable right in the face. I had a few nice fives and even a couple tens (the first one was kind of by accident). I will say this though: just because you've got the right arrow and get up there doesn't mean you're going to look good doing it. PEE YEW! My style was awful. I had some nice, smooth moments but also a handful of flailing kook-outs. When the board is such a solid performer, there is no one left to blame but yourself!

    newlyn, deemce and T-Bone like this.
  10. ChyandourSlider

    ChyandourSlider Member

    Nov 3, 2016
    West Cornwall, UK
    A few fun ones rolling into my local (Gwithian) last night. Rode my 10'6" Christenson Chris Craft glider on it for a couple of hours. Not a breath of wind. Best surf of the month!


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