How was your surf today?....share your stoke!

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Cuttlefish, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. Fishy

    Fishy Active Member

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    Aug 22, 2014
    IMG_0013.jpg Been surfing the glass off and there was a guy taking pictures the other day. I thought this ones pretty good although I wish he'd have gotten me closer to the nose...
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2017
  2. pefa

    pefa Active Member

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    Mar 14, 2008
    G-sett Rhode Island
  3. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    I got out for a quick session yesterday afternoon in Seaside Park. It was sloppy and choppy with NE/E winds -- terrible for surfing, but usually pretty fun conditions for the boog. The rips were huge and very obvious, and there were also some weird hazards in the water like the full sized wooden pallet I saw float by right before I paddled out. The waves were bigger than I expected once I got out there, but they were easy to manage and duckdive since it was just wind swell. I like navigating my way down the face on bigger rollers like that and trying to hit all the juicier spots to link together a decent ride. My best ride was a big set that had a funky angle to it, like a big V. I happened to be right in the middle and was slingshotted down a really great, long left... way past the fisherman that I went out of my way to avoid, and of course tangling my leg in one of her fishing lines. (Oops! I don't think she even noticed though.) Quick but good session.
     
    pefa likes this.
  4. Bighouse

    Bighouse Active Member

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    Feb 21, 2012
    East End, Long Island
    Last night I had a spare 30 mins to myself. There was a small lined up east ground swell with light on shore winds. Struggling into a wetsuit with a decent paddle in front of me I knew I only had time for one good wave. I skipped the booties, smashed through a couple and ended up in the clearest water, warmer than its been, sun finally out. Caught two close outs, bailed on a unusual drainer and decided to slow down and wait. After some time and asking the few people in the line up if they had a watch a set loomed. I stayed in position, paddled into it feeling a little too deep but knew the v. bowls was up to it. Highlined the 1st wall, touch the top and big bottom turn around the 1st section and sat in the pocket for the remainder of the wave. A fun little runner. The wave slowed down, I cut back into the white water let her reform and took her to the beach. One wave and I felt recharged. V. Bowls goes great most of the time, but there are days where it excels. Today was one of those days. Got to my obligation exactly on time.
     
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  5. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    265
    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    Yew! Nice one... good read. Sometimes one is all you need.

    By the way, since you asked a while back: I finally got to get my share of backside waves (lefts for me) on the v.Bowls. It worked out great for me. No notable issues, caught waves confidently, and felt under control. I find that I had good success rotating my chest forward and tuck the back knee inward for the bottom turn, almost drop knee-like. Cutbacks on backside waves felt great. A great board all around.
     
  6. Bighouse

    Bighouse Active Member

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    Feb 21, 2012
    East End, Long Island
    Thanks for the heads up! I'm blaming that day and frustration on exhaustion. I have 3 kids under 5, I should be thankful I have surf to complain about!
     
  7. newlyn

    newlyn Active Member

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    Jul 20, 2013
    USA Pennsylvania
    Took a half day off of work for my birthday today and made it to seaside park around 4pm to find nice sized clean waves. I had a long week, with a lot of late nights, so I was feeling my age and constantly struggled to paddle out, but the last wave was easily the longest ride I have ever had - everything just lined up. Called it quits and had a steak for dinner. Looking forward to some mellow waves tomorrow.
     
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  8. newlyn

    newlyn Active Member

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    Jul 20, 2013
    USA Pennsylvania
    Today did not disappoint. Woke up at five this morning and couldn't fall back asleep, so I snuck off the boat quietly, so as not to wake the kids and dog, and went to Seaside. Ran into ChillyWilly who apparently had the same idea, and had one of my most fun surf sessions ever. Chilly and I surfed for four hours straight and boy are my arms tired. Awesome day!
     

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  9. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

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    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    It was such a fun morning, and I'm glad I dragged myself up in the 5:00 hour to hit the early surf. It was earlier than I usually surf, and it was a peaceful ride in with the sun rising over the bay/river and some good music playing. I rode the v.Bowls but also would have been well suited with a longboard. Clean waves, I guess waist+ although the sets really seemed a bit bigger than that, and forgiving-yet-juicy for the best of both worlds. I saw Newlyn pulling up as I was heading onto the beach and ended up surfing with him for just about 4 hours. I love the way the vB likes tight little turns in the pocket -- really fun on a day like today. I saw Newlyn get a few nice ones on his Austin Stubby, so I think we both hit the jackpot. Leaving the beach, I actually considered staying longer since the waves were still nice, but I was smart enough to realize that 4 hours is my limit. The post-surf nap on the couch was mandatory and well deserved. Good sharing some waves with you, @newlyn!

    The wind shifted south for the afternoon, but what the hell -- my wife's away at a bridal shower, so I think I'll take a boog over and see if there's anything left.
     
    newlyn likes this.
  10. T-Bone

    T-Bone Member

    A little late on this one, but got out Thurs. afternoon, about 45mins after the dead low tide. winds light & onshore, so a little choppy, but workable waves in the waist + range. Waves breaking on the outside bar, and some were rolling through to reform on an inside bar, that made those rides decent length, and would deposit you just off the beach. 1st time out in a LONG time for me. Kooked it up for the 1st - 3 or 4 attempts, but then got it together for the rest of the session. Water warmer than I expected 3/2, no gloves, boots & was quite warm (I expected I might get a slight chill being overcast & cool outside)
    No one out but me. Had a few nice rides, a floater or two and a few nice cutbacks. Awesome to get back in after awhile out of the water!
     
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