Duck diving expectations

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by ac95, Oct 5, 2018.

  1. Gill

    Gill Active Member

    Mar 21, 2018
    Spring Lake Heights, NJ
    Hey Guys!

    Havnt posted in a while... busy with family

    But interesting to hear of different strategy for paddling out

    I don't think there is too much, if any at all of expectations to duck dive a LB, unless you hit the wave just right, but that's better discribed as punching thru a steep face

    Personally I feel you just gotta take it... and push through, and hold onto your board. Turtling never really worked for me unless the waves arnt too powerful, but then it's not really needed. So I don't even try it anymore.

    There's another way that's hard to explain that involves sitting on your board and as the wave comes- lifting up the nose so the wave goes under, then at the right moment when the wave is under- jumping up and grabbing the nose. If timed right, it works like gold. BUT it will cause stress cracks on your board over time. So I don't do it anymore. Except an emergency

    I think the best way is using your mind and planning your paddle out, knowing your break and using a rip. And timing the sets. Many times I don't even get my hair wet. Plus with a LB you have a huge advantage over SB- you can paddle much faster!

    So with a SB you paddle slow, but can duck dive and take like 10 waves on the head cause your much slower- but with a LB you might take one or 2 on the head but get out quicker and not get hung up in the currents and soup
    SeniorGrom likes this.
  2. SeniorGrom

    SeniorGrom Well-Known Member

    Mar 20, 2012
    USA New Jersey
    I like Gill’s techniques. Especially getting rolling whitewater to pass under your longboard with minimal backward push. Doesn’t work in the impact zone of course but with rolling whitewater, paddle hard, then sit back raising the nose, as the whitewater hits move your hands to the rails on the nose. Done the right way your board will ride up and over, the whitewater will pass underneath. Quickly dig in and paddlehard. You could be right about this causing stress cracks but I never experienced that.
    davey and Gill like this.
  3. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2015
    Devils Lake, Oregon Coast
    find the biggest issue with trying to duck dive LB's are wider noses, too much rebound from the area...solution for me is to use narrower noses, none wider then 17.5"...on my go to for overhead reeling, nose is 16.5"...Takayama DT-1 style.

    when facing punchy whitewater, however, employ the 'quick look behind to make sure no potential victims trailing, ditch the board, retrieve after ww passes'...repaired rotator cuffs and hog wrestling LB's are incompatible...
    Tenfooter likes this.
  4. nedsurf

    nedsurf Well-Known Member

    Jan 22, 2005
    As long as the leash doesn't break. Regarding shoulders, learned that holding on loosely is a recipe for disaster (I'm guessing you already know that, but others may not). Hold on like your life depends on it takes the strain off the shoulder, but shit can still happen.
  5. Salinity

    Salinity Well-Known Member

    May 11, 2016
    USA Rhode Island
    Anyone ever try the method shown in Endless Summer - paddling hard then standing up as the whitewater its the board?
  6. LÜGEN

    LÜGEN Active Member

    Nov 6, 2016
    I do this often. It’s easy since I only knee paddle. You can only do this right before or as the wave is breaking.
  7. LÜGEN

    LÜGEN Active Member

    Nov 6, 2016
    My boards are not duck divable. I sit on my board lean back slide forward and try and float over the white wash.
  8. Drew

    Drew New Member

    Sep 7, 2018
    Slice 'n' duck.

    What is it? Like a normal duck dive, but push one hand down first to get the nose to sink really quickly. The board should go into the water at like a 45-60 degree angle. YES, waxing the rails up on the tip of the nose is critical. Once you get the board under several few feet then equal the weight distribution of your hands to level out, and keep at least one knee/foot on the back of the board. Once the you feel the wave moving over you, shift your weight back and push down hard on the back leg to bring the board up. As with any duck dive, it's all about timing. Get your timing right and you can get most longboards through head high to maybe even a foot or two over. Works well with any board that has a lot of volume.

    NOTE....not overly effective in 15'-20' Tres Palmas. I tried. In cases such as that, just hold on for dear life. Take your beating and gather yourself and then ride whitewater into the channel. When clear, paddle back out around the break. Or, if there is no channel, head in and get beers and wait for another day.
  9. Dawnpatrol

    Dawnpatrol Well-Known Member

    May 7, 2006
    My days of duck diving ended years ago! If it's over 2-3' I'll find a channel (that doesn't shut down while paddling out) , a rip or a point break to ride. Can't imagine even making it out at OB in SF at my age on my 9' when it's big. Those days are well over! Knee high all the way for this old fart!
    Tenfooter likes this.
  10. Chilly Willy

    Chilly Willy Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey
    My shortboarding coworker asks me this all the time: "Can you duckdive that thing?" (and "what's the volume?") I turn turtle almost all the time, even with midlengths if I need to. I will sometimes punch through the lip if the timing is right. If I need the extra assistance from physics, I'll submerge one rail so that it slices into the water -- the water will flow over it and assists me in pushing it down. It's much easier than trying to sink the whole nose yourself.

    I used to find that it was easier to paddle out on a longboard on bigger days than a shortboard just because of the increased paddle power -- it was always turtle for me. I was more aggressive back then and would pull down pretty hard to get the water to flow over. I am a little choosier these days about when I paddle out and sometimes get the old catapult because I'm used to smaller waves and don't pull it down hard enough. I also like to paddle out NOT when there's a break but when specifically when there are a few to go under just to break the ice and reassure myself that I can handle it.

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