As per what pintail said/uses. Put the "hang track" at the top of the wall and anchor it into the wall's "header". From there you do not necessarily need to anchor the "standards" into studs; simple drywall anchors fastening into the wall for position stability is sufficient. When properly fastened into the wall header you can do pull-ups on the 20 inch brackets! https://closetmaid.com/webapp/wcs/s...&pageView:grid&minPrice:&maxPrice:&pageSize:&
Re bar is even better and you can drill smaller holes and fit more boards. A metal cutting dis on an angle grinder will cut through it fast. Foam pipe insulation is cheap and available. Pool noodles are a good idea but dollar stores only carry that shit seasonly.
One day, I'd like to make a nice set of oak racks with concealed screws. For now, I use 2x4's & 2x3's similar to how I would make a lumber rack. See below, capable of holding thousands of pounds. Just ugly. PL and epoxy coated screws are your friend. I tend to over build anything holding thousands of dollars worth of fiberglass. I also like the gatekeeper racks and have installed a few in clients house with lagbolts directly into the framing.
What I actually did was use re-bar, covered with 1/2" PVC, then put on the pipe insulation over the PVC. The re-bar doesn't need to be full length to lend the strength needed, you sure don't want the metal end exposed to scratch anything that comes in contact with it and it rusts. I had originally used 3/4" or 1" wood dowels but eventually one of them broke, never had an issue with re-bar which I had a bunch of lying around. I wouldn't use aluminum electrical conduit, can bend/fail. Cha-ching! 2 cents please, you're welcome.
This is a smart way to do it. Sturdy and inexpensive...likely easier to get the re bar into the wood too. I used Spax screws to fasten the 2x4s to the studs.