Best wall racks... suggestions please.

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by hangeleven, Jan 7, 2018.

  1. dingpatch

    dingpatch Well-Known Member

    Apr 2, 2014
    USA Florida
    As per what pintail said/uses.

    Put the "hang track" at the top of the wall and anchor it into the wall's "header". From there you do not necessarily need to anchor the "standards" into studs; simple drywall anchors fastening into the wall for position stability is sufficient. When properly fastened into the wall header you can do pull-ups on the 20 inch brackets!
    hangeleven likes this.
  2. nedsurf

    nedsurf Well-Known Member

    Jan 22, 2005
    Re-bar, seriously. Covered with tape and pipe insulation, or colorful pool noodles?
    hangeleven likes this.
  3. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
    Re bar is even better and you can drill smaller holes and fit more boards. A metal cutting dis on an angle grinder will cut through it fast. Foam pipe insulation is cheap and available. Pool noodles are a good idea but dollar stores only carry that shit seasonly.
  4. michael

    michael Active Member

    Apr 19, 2017
    Here’s a vote for T-RAX holding up for me just fine
  5. Tenfooter

    Tenfooter Active Member

    Nov 12, 2014
    USA Rhode Island


    the devil is here on earth!!!!

    you should be banned for life
    306Bing likes this.
  6. 306Bing

    306Bing Active Member

    Oct 1, 2015
    Umm, I bought them for my kids?
  7. Bighouse

    Bighouse Active Member

    Feb 21, 2012
    East End, Long Island
    One day, I'd like to make a nice set of oak racks with concealed screws. For now, I use 2x4's & 2x3's similar to how I would make a lumber rack. See below, capable of holding thousands of pounds. Just ugly. PL and epoxy coated screws are your friend. I tend to over build anything holding thousands of dollars worth of fiberglass. I also like the gatekeeper racks and have installed a few in clients house with lagbolts directly into the framing.

    Croweater likes this.
  8. nedsurf

    nedsurf Well-Known Member

    Jan 22, 2005
    What I actually did was use re-bar, covered with 1/2" PVC, then put on the pipe insulation over the PVC. The re-bar doesn't need to be full length to lend the strength needed, you sure don't want the metal end exposed to scratch anything that comes in contact with it and it rusts. I had originally used 3/4" or 1" wood dowels but eventually one of them broke, never had an issue with re-bar which I had a bunch of lying around. I wouldn't use aluminum electrical conduit, can bend/fail. Cha-ching! 2 cents please, you're welcome.
  9. PeakMaster

    PeakMaster Well-Known Member

    Feb 15, 2004
    USA New Jersey CMC
    This is a smart way to do it. Sturdy and inexpensive...likely easier to get the re bar into the wood too.
    I used Spax screws to fasten the 2x4s to the studs.

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