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Discussion in 'Surfing' started by slideright, Apr 19, 2016.
If you care about my vision of surfing, I'll care about yours...cool?
Introverts and extroverts, man. Introverts and extroverts.
You guys in California are a trip.
Edit... But you make some damn fine surfboards.
Trouser jousting! On guard!
Smukes. Checked out some clips of that colapinto kid. Almost makes me wanna ride a pintailed log. Almost.
I just surf as much and as well as my body lets me
Mango Bill wrote:
my favorite post of the day
Mango Bill wrote:
This just about sums up my surfing these days.
Pulled this from Instagram.
Lance Carson - Malibu, 1950 - "When I was a kid at Malibu it wasn't like, "get out of my way kid, or I'll run you over." Everyone tried to help you out. Nobody would push you off. I'd take off in front of guys and I'd feel this hand grab the back of my shorts, and it'd be some guy helping me up on my feet! That's the way surfing used to be. My early memories of surfing are bitchen! I remember standing up and seeing the bottom go by, the water was clear. There was sea life out there. Malibu had sea slugs, not too many urchins, starfish, octopus. Japanese fishermen would be out there every day at low tide, collecting seafood in buckets. You don't see that kind of sea life at Malibu anymore. The sand used to be pure white, and you could walk along after the tide had gone out and the sand was real smooth and it would squeak under your feet, that's how clean it was. There were uncrowded days, 4th of July weekend, six guys out, light wind coming off the point, blue-green water. You could hear guys taking off, paddling for the wave before it broke, splashing sounds as they paddled, the water slapping against the nose of their boards. I wish kids today could have memories like I've got, know about the days when surfing was mellow and if you could get your parents to take you surfing you could always find waves, sunshine, anytime you wanted. And no hassles, no crowds, no parking problemâ€¦" -Lance Carson in Surfer, 1984 -
So good. Thanks for that.
That account is gold.My favorite from recently."Six car day at Rincon, 1960, featuring a small but stellar cast. The pickup is Renny Yater's. The other vehicles belong to Bob Cooper, Miki Dora, Lance Carson and Kemp Aaberg. John Severson climbed the hill for this overview. By 1960, the sport had surged from several thousand to perhaps hundreds of thousands, but was obviously still unspoiled for the knowledgeable bird-dogging of major swells; a mute testimony to the mixed blessing of today's information overload." Page One of Surfer's Journal, Summer 2003