Attention: SF Surfers

Discussion in 'Surfing' started by Dawnpatrol, Apr 12, 2018.

  1. Dawnpatrol

    Dawnpatrol Well-Known Member

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    May 7, 2006
    PNW
    Just downloaded and viewed a new video: The Great Highway; Journey to the Soul of Surfing, a documentary of surfing history around Ocean Beach. It's an interesting history of the SF surf scene from the 40's through the present. Having been born and raised on Ortega Street, several blocks up from OB, the dad introduced me to surfing at Kelly's in the 50's. Much too young to appreciate surfing but a journey down to HMB and easier less harsh conditions got me hooked. Here's a link to the website: https://www.greathighwaymovie.com/

    It was good to see that some of the characters I knew back then are still around!
     
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  2. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

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    Feb 6, 2015
    First surfed Kelly's in 62', cut-off jeans on a Duke K popout, and surfed a bunch with that crew I moved to Oregon in 06'...characters is an understatement for some of them...
     
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  3. hankster

    hankster Member

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    Nov 12, 2013
    USA California
    I've been surfing OB for over 30 years, the last few on a sweet Campbell Bros Bonzer gun bought from Surfnfish. My late dad used to surf Kelly's in the 50s on surf mats using homemade wetsuits from a pattern listed in Popular Mechanics made out of inner tubes and contact cement. Needless to say, I need to check out this movie.
     
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  4. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

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    Yo Hankster, you're the guy I shipped that custom Bonzer to via Amtrak? That is way cool about your Pop..

    Yea, lotta bro's in the vid..wouldn't have wanted to grow up and live in any other place or time..
     
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  5. hankster

    hankster Member

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    Nov 12, 2013
    USA California
    Yes sir, the 7' 10" Five Fin sees plenty of use every season. You were blessed to have grown up during that era. Heck, the mid 80's to mid 90's drought years were pretty darn sweet too. Nowadays The Beach is crowded, although legitimate 8' days tend to thin things out a bit.
     
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  6. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

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    Feb 6, 2015
    Stoked you're digging the board..Malcom told me actually shaped it 2x, wasn't happy with the first one..

    that mid 80's to 90's period as good a run of fall and winter surf at OB as I ever saw..

    a buddy up here who does a lot of global surf trips took my advice and spent 10 days last fall at OB, stayed at the my fave the Ocean Park Motel, hit a really good run of OB surf..came back babbling..with way sore arms..lol
     
  7. hankster

    hankster Member

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    Nov 12, 2013
    USA California
    Yes! This past season was very user friendly. The 7' 10" saw plenty of use as did a couple of 8' guns. None of the real big guns saw any use. Plenty of offshore days in the manageable range. Nothing too heavy for the most part. Your buddy was stoked for sure.
     
  8. Surfnfish

    Surfnfish Well-Known Member

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    re-watched Great Highway last night, really brought the past alive again..and felt the loss of folks in the film now gone.
    Peter Van Dyke...the last time I saw him he was in Norcal flogging his new book, ran into him at Wise's surf shop, we ended up having a long lunch together at a nearby deli, talking story..surfing only mildly interested him at that point, he was madly in love with his wife, Montana, where he had a cabin, and fly fishing. A truly thoughtful, sensitive gentleman
    Marc Grabinsky...aka The Bolinas Rat..no one had the balance on a surfboard that Marc did, pulled off the craziest maneuvers and tube rides..during our late teens we dated a couple of gals who were best friends, made a Baja run together, and had some memorable times experiencing the SF music scene of the 60's..Marc was a superb artist who lived out the end of his life on Kaui
    Jack O'Neil, sold me my first wetsuit vest..his shop on the next to the Great Highway the hub of all that was surfing..as a young grom, hanging on every word that Jack uttered..his vision and confidence was fairly astounding..
    Rod Lunquist..such a tremendous surfer and waterman..and what a character.. listening to his rapid fire monologues were like trying to drink from a fire hose..
    Stan Ross..met him at the top of the trail exiting from a solo session at Ross's Cove in 71', bow tie and librarian sweater on..recently discharged from the service, I was living on the bluff, parked right by the trail, in my truck while trying to find a place to rent in what was back then the very small town of HMB..changed and made some tea, and we had what would turn out to be the first of aeveral extended talk story sessions over the next decade..
    Alex Mateinzo..the Godather who had entry to every door in the local surfing community, respected by all..often picked me up hitch hiking to Pedro with my Wardy on highway 1 and would lecture me on getting good grades, and stay away from drugs..but a couple of beers was ok..lol
    Fred Windisch..the gentle giant..so smart, so chill..his movie The Natural Art ground breaking..

    Remembering those memorable folks had me thinking of living the life of a surfer, one that is defined by Moments.

    Our life on land tends to just blur together, a long train of experiences, occasionally distinguished by something memorable.

    But surfing? We can literally remember rides that go back decades. A ride that may have only lasted 15 seconds, a ride that we can summon and recall at will, each a distinctly frozen Moment in time that we created and we retain. Thousands of rides, thousands of Moments, each unique, each linked together, while the rest of our life just the long blur of living and taking care of business.

    And when our respective days come to an end, should we be fortunate enough to have the time to reflect on our journey, one thing is certain. We'll be reliving all those precious Moments that we had created...meeting the love of our life, the birth of our children, a climb to the top of a mountain...and the thousands of rides, each a frozen Moment during our journey, that strung it all together..
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018

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