Longboard.net Forum - Since 1997

is admitting you have a problem. FB_IMG_1532513144550.jpg
Surf related? I dunno...probably not--maybe SLIGHTLY....depends on the episode.....and whether or not youre a closet fan of Reunion Island showing up in the news...

BUT...I'm sure everyone here IS aware of this terrifying yearly phenomenon....(despite the last few years being inundated with ridiculous celebrity types)....

I'll readily admit I'm glued to the television this time of year...(monumental in itself)...I often go overboard (no pun) celebrating & entertaining this ridiculous secret pleasure of mine.

Having said that...here's a piece of woodwork I made as decor for my lanai...an appropriate homage to Quint's stern.............Narragansett brewery should thank me...despite their brew ranking up there with..with....well...water...with a dash of yellow food coloring....

(Yeah, I had to Asian that sh!t out....you're welcome DingD)


Oh....and here's a 5am morning beach jog (3/4 moon) where you could LITERALLY grab nurse's from the shoreline....


Of course...I don't always win...blacktip...about a month later....2 feet of water....f*cker...


AAAAnd...the obligatory meme I can't (unfortunately) take credit for...I just happen to like it:

Just in case you are interested, or have a kid that might enjoy

I can’t remember being denied on an initial paddle out. When it’s big there are days (the last 2 years) when I only watch. When I decide to go I study it first. Swell angle, rips, current, jetties, and shortboarders duck diving 12-15 times stuck in the impact zone. See others with more experience wait, time it right, use the rip on the right side of a jetty not even get their hair wet. Sometimes my timing is wrong and I’ll take a few on the head but for the most part the jetties and rips help (East Coast Beach Break).
long shot but if anyone coming from Encinitas area or San Diego to NY CAN pick up at airport if Sherpa a Fish for me .
Just scored a gem
How much importance do you guys put on a board's first impression in the water?

Personally, I have yet to connect with a board long term after the first session was a stinker. Some boards I'll push & convince myself that I like it, only to dump them a year later - other times the board might be just fine, but there's always that lingering energy of the first impression (unless a theoretical mind blowing session occurs after the initial bummer... hasn't happened to me yet)

I think I've tracked down the root of the feelings in impatience, a healthy amount of undeveloped surfing skills, & a type of 'the grass is always greener' effect.

-Do you guys feel the same way about first impressions? If so, do you feel bad about it or do you wholly embrace it as truth?

-Guys who don't feel the same way- You push and push on a board that doesn't necessarily connect the first few sessions and grow to love it? When do you know when to call it quits?

Edit, I just recalled one board that totally redeemed itself after an initial bad session. May have debunked the entire thought shot.
A good question, copied from the blog 23 Breaths (It's a mat surfing blog) -
"The age old debate surfer have with themselves.
Do you go in after a good wave?
Do you go in after a bad wave?
I think it ranks up there with the age old Zen classics like “What's the sound of one hand clapping?” or even “What was your original face before you were born?”.
Every surfer has had to answer the riddle was that last wave good enough to be “my last wave”?
Too good a wave and you have topped off your stoke reserve and want to immediately paddle out and get another one.
Too funky of a wave and you think “I don't want that one to be my last one” let me go out and get one more.
So, as they say, the search continues."

Which do you choose, good or bad?
have a newer LB for sale, excellent condition, dropped the price down to $600 because surfboard buyers in Oregon are...well you decide...

email from a gal, brief sketch of her life history, multiple references to a boyfriend who sounds just peachy...finally gets to the board... "I'm just starting out, really don't know much about surfboards..do you think this will be a good one for me? My girlfriend who works at the wine bar with me in Portland says it's only worth $400 so I'd be willing to offer that".

"Hey dude, that's a really bitchin board. See, the thing is, I live up in Seattle, and you live like 2 hours south of Portland? Well, if it's cool with you, I'll be down in Portland with my girlfriend tomorrow night to see one of our favorite bands play and if you'd be willing to drive to Portland and meet us in front of the club before the club opens, I could give you $400 cash? What do you think?

The very well off psychiatrist with a thriving practice who used to speed through our old neighborhood in his Porsche convertible coming and going from his wine estate up in the hills and his downtown practice. "Well, that's a very nice board, and if you would take $500 for it, my wife and I will be going to our second home on the coast tomorrow and could swing by and pick it up then."

The old surfer 200 miles down the coast, two long emails, one chronicalling his injuries and illnesses, thinks the board would be perfect for him, but the problem is, he's broke because his girlfriend took off and left him with all the bills.

And probably a half dozen inquiries asking if the board is still available - and the last sentence on the CL ad states "if this ad is still up, the board is still for sale." And of course, no further responses when I reply yes, the board is still available.

Fug'it..board goes into my buddy's surf shop on Monday for consignment...
I have a friend coming into town and realized I have no beaters left in my quiver. I can offer up some $ or a 6-pack or an old 9'2 board bag with a stuck zipper or a 10'6 board sock. An old beater will do as well. THANKS!