Longboard.net Forum - Since 1997


Thought I'd introduce myself.

Grew up surfing in Santa Cruz, spent about 8 years surfing the LA area while in college, then back to Santa Cruz and up to Seattle for law school. Roots have gone down here, in my, uh, late 30s, married, kiddo on the way, and have finally settled in to being a surfer in the PNW rather than focusing purely on traveling. If you live around here and cross the I90 bridge with any regularity, I'm the guy paddling Lake Washington on a 16 foot paddleboard in the winter. I've got a small boat and have spent some time exploring around here, and like what we've found (when it works . . . ), so the paddling in the lake is worth it for the few sessions we manage to grab.

I'd be interested in some feedback on shapers in the PNW, when I was in Southern California, Chris Ruddy made me a few boards that I liked, and my current quiver was shaped by John Mel around ten years ago, and I love both the longboard he shaped me and the 7 foot retro shape we worked out a while back. The latter is a speed demon and fun in lined up head-high waves. Also have had Bob Pearson make me a board, and have owned everything from a mid-60s Hansen to a funky 8'0" Takayama Noserider.

It is time to update some of my boards, and I'd like to strike up a relationship with a good shaper in Oregon or Washington--probably first something more traditional and a noserider for summers up here, and then something more suited to winter point breaks. If anyone has suggestions, I'd love to hear them, otherwise I'll probably tap back into the California shapers I've worked with in the past.


Fellow Sliders,

If you were going to buy/order one *noserider* (from 10' to 10'2") in South California, which one would that be and why? (It would be used on waves from 2' to 5', point & beachbreaks in South America).

If a thread on the subject (here or elsewhere) exists, please redirect me.

I'll keep the specifics out, but I've become pressured to do several models, molded EPS from out of the country.
I presented my view that this is counter to EVERYTHING I believe in, sending money out of the country, breaking away from the true custom build and letting someone who I don't know or who doesn't know me or my customer build my name.

Let me know how you feel about this, it turned into a shouting match in my shaping room yesterday over my resistance.
Admittedly i'm too lazy to dig out the last thread for quivers so apologies for starting a new one!

I keep trying to tell my wife this is a small one compared to some of you guys...

30 January 2010

Dear Longboard.Net Surfing Forum,

I just visited my good friend, who is a father of four in San Diego. I noticed how well-behaved his kids were, and what a happy family he and his wife had there. Indeed, it is a testimony to his wonderful wife, his great example, and the two working together to effectively raise a family in crazy, insane times.

Reflecting on this, and piecing together a series of thoughts from the last few months, I would like to offer my Cooperfish Nose Devil to a father who would like to teach his son and/or daughter surfing - or join their child in the line-up on an absolutely fantastic surfboard.

I could sell this board for (a few) hundreds of dollars, but the joy of giving it to a family for their use would be much better it seems to me.

Here's the pitch:

1. I am offering this Cooperfish, shaped by Gene, to a deserving father and son/daughter team. It is located in San Diego, and I can give you access to it no problem. (I am located in New Jersey, but we can work logistics). I will not pay for shipping, but I will kindly ask my neighbor to drop the board wherever you wish if you live far from SD. (If you cannot afford shipping, but you have a good story, I will see what I can figure out).

2. Post your situation (with pics, or however you feel comfortable), or you can email me personally if you do not wish to post information publicly, which I completely understand. Use this address: sastone@princeton.edu (Subj: NOSEDEVIL). Tell me your story, and I will choose a 'winner'.

3. You can nominate a friend whom you think would be stoked to get their child, and themselves, on one of Gene's boards.

4. Bottom Line, I will make a decision no later than the morning of 11 FEB 2010 for the giveaway (so we can move on to the entertaining Cooperfish auction!).

5. If you are a mom who is fired up, surfing with your kid, please feel free to participate, and send me your info/story.

6. Lastly, if you are a father-to-be,...
As much a part of surfing as anything else that gets discussed here. So let's hear what you have to say. As for me I'll start with a quote:

"24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case. Coincidence?"
Many of you know the VW van family so I want to ask what are the ones to buy, what to avoid. What are the common pitfalls of these vehicles? I have a very limited budget so while I welcome comments on newer Eurovans they are way out of my price range unless you recommend a good one for less than $5-6k. I would like a pop-up, basically want to know if I can buy a reliable (very reliable!) van for that price range. Would prefer an automatic because of freeway driving, but don't know if that is asking for trouble. If I'm askng for something that isn't realistic then tell me that also (not that anyone here would ever try to hurt my feelings).

Also will consider alternatives, which some of you have with american vans with camper tops. Thanks.
you can be certain of that.
I worked at Clyde Beatty's for a stretch. It was there that I realized how upside down , custom surfboard building is.

I would guess most people that ride custom surfboards have little idea about what cost, and effort go into every step of the board.

I am going to try to (albeit roughly) describe the process here:


every shaper has a room that the board is shaped in. that room cost rent, that room requires electricity, that room has tools that cost money to purchase and to maintain. in most cases that room cost gas money to get to.

the blank. the shaper drives to pick the blanks up. that is time and gas.

now think about what a master shaper of custom surfboards should earn as an hourly rate. what a consumer would spend out of pocket for that hour does not reflect what the shaper puts in their pocket. the shaper usually pays the overhead i just mentioned.

this is just a quick sketch of the cost of "shaping a board".

now the glassing.

the glass shop cost rent, requires electricity, has materials that constantly need replenishing and is very toxic.

after a surfboard is shaped it goes through many stages during its "glassing" process. as I am talking about custom surfboards, there is a certain level of quality that is adhered to. there is a direct relationship between (the higher the level of quality) and (the longer the man hours, and typically more materials).

the glassing process is roughly: laminating one side, laminating the other, hot coating, finning, sanding, glossing, sanding, polishing.

each process requires time,tools, and materials. in most cases , there are different artisans, or workers, performing each step. those employees should have health care given the toxicity of the environment.

a $2000 board doesn't yield much for the pocket of the person whose name is on it.
I'm starting to think about another board and wanted to get some of your ideas/opinions.

Let's take your standard 9-6 x 23 wide x 3-1/4 thick board.
What would going wider and thinner do? Say 23-1/2 wide x 3 or 3-1/8 thick

Do wider boards plane better?

Pros and cons
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